This Glock 29 came from an estate sale and it's gross. Who knows what we're gonna find? Rust?
Grind? Maybe a little bit of regret? I don't know but we're gonna find out together. So let's get
this Glock 29 on the bench, do a deep cleaning and find out what I got myself into. A lot of the tools
I'll be using for this deep cleaning are coming from the field tool kit for Glock from my friends
over at Fix-It Sticks. First thing I'm going to do is make sure this gun is unloaded and safe to be
We'll need to field strip this Glock, and if you haven't worked on Glocks before, I'll
walk you through the process.
You'll grab the gun in an underhand method just like this, and then squeeze until the
barrel unlocks.
You'll then pull down on both sides of the slide lock.
That'll let the slide settle forward.
Then you'll squeeze the trigger and remove the slide.
Now that we got the slide off, we're starting to see what I got myself into.
This gun was obviously used heavy and put away really dirty.
We're going to finish the field strip and see exactly how bad this pistol is.
We're going to start by removing the recoil spring by pushing on the back.
When it compresses the spring, we'll pull up a little bit and then remove the recoil
spring assembly.
Pushing on this spring gave a lot more tension than I was expecting and this is obviously
not a Glock part.
looks like it's a Wolf Springs Guide Rod Spring Set. We're going to continue by
removing the barrel from the slide. I'm simply going to push in on the top and
pull out through the bottom. Now that we have the slide field stripped, let's turn
our attention to the barrel. It's obviously dirty on the outside and
putting a bore scope in says that we really need to start cleaning this
barrel. Fortunately this just looks like fouling and dirt and there is no rust.
Even the chamber is really nasty on this barrel. We'll pull the barrel aside for
cleaning. Since this is a non-captive spring I'm going to pull it apart and see
if there's any rust or wear that I need to address. Looks like there's a little
bit of surface rust on one of the springs. We'll clean it up and see how
bad it really is. One of the things I like about Fix-It sticks is how modular
the tools are. I'm going to play with this hook here, do the next steps, that way my
hands are out of the way.
It's obvious that we need to do a deep cleaning on this gun just from looking
at the barrel. So we're going to take the slide apart and we're going to start with
the rear slide cap. We'll need to pull the spacer sleeve forward in order to
get the rear cap off. Normally you'd use a punch for this but I'm going to use
the hook to keep my hands out of the way of the camera. Push down on the spacer
sleeve and then slide the cap out. Usually these caps come out a lot easier
but this gun is so dirty that it's almost glued in place. Once you get the cap to start moving,
you can pull your punch out. Then cover the rear of the slide with your hand and then push the cap
out. Now slide the firing pin assembly out through the rear.
We'll now pull the extractor plunger assembly out through the rear.
Since this gun is really dirty we're going to disassemble the firing pin that way we can make
sure everything is clean and properly maintained. We're going to use the rear of the slide as our
bench block and we're going to put the firing pin in backwards with the tail slightly off to the side.
From here we're going to compress the spring. Then we're going to remove the plastic cap
off the top of the spring. As you can see this cap is actually in two pieces.
From here we're going to slowly release the spring tension.
And then pull the spring off. The spring is in really good shape both inside and outside.
Now we can remove the firing pin from the back of the slide.
and remove the spacer sleeve from the firing pin.
The parts are a little dirty but not too extreme. Now let's work on our extractor
depressor assembly. We're going to grab the plunger in the
spring and twist the plunger counterclockwise while pulling out.
Now we'll pull out the spring-loaded bearing by doing essentially the same
process. The parts are dirty but fortunately there's no rust. It looks
like there's a lot of dirt trapped in the extractor slot. We'll need to pull
and clean to keep this gun running smoothly. To remove the extractor we'll
need to push in on the firing pin safety. Usually we can just push in on the
safety and rotate the slide and the extractor will fall free. Unfortunately
this gun is so dirty that it didn't do that. So I needed to push in on the
safety and pull the extractor from the slide.
As you can see there's a lot of dirt on the extractor and in the slot. Now we can
remove the safety by pulling it from the bottom of the slide. Just like the
extractor there's so much dirt that I needed to pull this manually from the
slide. Usually they just drop free on their own. Twist counterclockwise to
remove the safety from the spring. Upon inspection we just have some dirt and no
rust. So since this gun has been mistreated so much I am gonna pull the
channel liner. Usually you don't have to do this but fortunately Fix-It Stix has
a channel liner tool. We're going to insert the channel liner tool into the
back of the slide then push and twist so that way we can lock into the channel
liner. Then we're going to pull hard to remove the channel liner. This channel
liner is not reusable and will need to be discarded. Now since this gun has been
mistreated we're going to remove the sights to make sure there's no rust
underneath them. These early third generation Glock's had a front sight
that was wedged in place. We're simply going to use a punch and drive it out. There's a little
bit of wear but fortunately no rust. Now just like the channel liner, this front sight gets pitched
too. I'll simply use a sight pusher to remove the rear sight and inspect the dovetail. The previous
owner did some filing on the rear sight. Not sure why but I can keep it and reuse it. Fortunately
the dovetail looks really good with no rust on it at all. This thing is so dirty I could be scrubbing
this for hours. So instead I'm going to cheat and I'm going to use my ultrasonic cleaner.
I like to use a shot glass for soaking small parts. I'll scoop up some warm solution in my
ultrasonic cleaner, put my parts in, and drop it right into the ultrasonic cleaner which will keep
the small parts warm while the ultrasonic cleaner is doing its job on the larger parts. I'll then
drop in my other parts and let the ultrasonic cleaner do its thing. Once I'm done I'll take
the parts out, dry them off and I'll do a final wiping, especially on this slide. The slide is
still coming out dirty so I'll run it through the ultrasonic cleaner for another run. Meanwhile,
I'll continue with the small parts and all the other parts while the slide is going through for
another 30 minutes. All the parts are coming up really clean but we still need to work on this
barrel a little bit later. Our second 30 minutes on the slide seems to have done the trick and it's
coming up pretty clean. We'll clean up the slide and all the parts with some Aegis Gun Care to make
sure that we got all the cleaning solution off of the parts and the slide because we don't want any
problems later. We're then going to wipe down all the parts with some Aegis Gun Care lubricant
to make sure they're preserved and ready for use. Our first step is install a brand new channel
liner into the slide. We're going to use the channel liner install tool that came with our
Fix-It Sticks kit. Simply put the channel liner onto the tool and we'll slide everything into
the rear of the slide. Once everything's lined up, keep on pushing until the channel liner
completely disappears into the slide. Now we're going to gather all of our parts to put our
firing pin back together. We're going to start with the sleeve and the firing pin.
They simply slide together. We're going to use the back of our slide as our bench block again.
Just make sure the tail of the firing pin is off to the side. Now we're going to gather our spring
and install it onto our firing pin. It doesn't matter which side goes on first.
Now we're going to compress the spring and we'll install our slide caps with the small side going
down into the spring. You want to make sure that the end of the spring does not end up into the
joint of the two caps. Compress the spring and then install the two caps into the top of the spring.
As you can see you might fumble with this a little bit but eventually you'll get them into
the top of the spring and then release the pressure. You'll see that the ledge on the firing
pin holds the spring caps in place. Once you're done installing the spring caps you can pull the
firing pin out of the back of the slide. Now we're going to put together our extractor plunger,
spring and loaded bearing. It's not going to matter which side of the spring that we put
the loaded bearing or the plunger onto. Simply push the plunger into place until it snaps.
the plunger has an end with a nub on it that's going to go inside the spring.
Install it onto the spring and give it a slight clockwise twist.
Now we're going to install our spring into our firing pin safety.
The spring is going to install into this hole on the one side of the safety.
It's not going to matter which side of the spring goes in first.
You're going to install it and then give it a slight twist clockwise.
Might take you a few times to get it right.
and know it's right when you turn the assembly upside down and the spring stays in place.
Now we're going to install a brand new front sight onto the slide.
The white tail of the front sight is going to go into this hole in the front of the slide.
Then we'll use our front sight tool and our fix-it sticks kit to install the screw.
Pop the front sight into the slide, then flip the slide over, then install the screw until it's
snug. Be careful not to over tighten or else you'll strip the front sight.
Now we can install the rear sight into the dovetail. Slide the rear sight into the dovetail
and finish installing using the sight pusher.
Now it's time to put our upper parts into the slide. We're going to start on the underside
of the slide and install our safety. Install the safety spring first into the hole in the slide.
Now we'll install the extractor. Push in on the safety and install the extractor. Release the
safety and the extractor is now installed. We're going to install the extractor plunger into the
small hole in the back of the slide. Install the metal tip into the hole and then push it
into place. Plastic bearing should be sticking out just like this. Now grab your firing pin
and install it into the large hole in the back of the slide.
Now we're ready to install the slide cap into the rear.
The slide cap installs into these grooves on the back of the slide.
Put the slide cap into the grooves and hold it in place with your thumb.
Now use a punch and push in on the rear of the firing pin and slide up a little farther.
Now use your punch and push in on the spring-loaded bearing and continue installing the slide cap.
Now that we got everything else from the slide cleaned up, let's work on the barrel.
The ultrasonic cleaner did a good job, but we still need to work on the inside of this barrel.
I'm going to use the cleaning rod that came with my Fix-It 6 kit.
It goes together super easy and it does a great job of cleaning the inside of a barrel.
This gun care does a great job of cleaning up the fouling inside the barrel as well as
protecting it for the future.
I'll use the Aegis lubricant to protect the inside of the barrel as well as lubricate
the slide.
Now with this barrel all cleaned up, let's lubricate the slide.
Let's lubricate the slide and get it put back together.
We just need to drop down the rails and just wipe them clean to make sure there's not too
much lube.
Now we just insert the muzzle end of the barrel into the slide and then drop the backside
into place.
Now we'll put the open end of the Wolf recoil spring assembly into the front of the slide
while the back side goes into this half moon cut into the barrel.
Since I already lubricated the springs and the guide rods, it's just time to put the
springs onto the guide rods and then put the guide rods together.
Since the Wolf guide rod and spring isn't captive, it's a little weird to put it in
at first, but you just push right past it.
Now the spring is going to fight you a little bit here, but just push into it and then drop
the back side into the little half moon cut in the front of the lug.
Now that we got this slide back together, it's time to work on that lower.
This lower is pretty nasty, so we're definitely going to be using that ultrasonic cleaner.
We've got a couple of pins in the front that we're going to need to take out, and we'll
use the larger 3/32" punch to do this with.
We're going to completely remove the top pin out of the frame.
Now we're going to remove the bottom pin, but this one is just a little bit trickier,
because it holds both the trigger
and the slide stop in place.
First thing we're gonna do is pick up on the slide stop.
Then we're gonna put our punch in place
and then push our slide stop towards the trigger
while punching out the pin.
Now we just pull the slide stop out from the rear.
Now we're gonna remove the locking block.
Using your 3/32 inch punch,
put it under the right-hand side of the locking block
with the handle on the left hand side of the frame and then pry it up.
Now this pistol was installed with a slider lock trigger on it so you can't pull it out
without disassembling it.
We'll need to use our 1/16th inch punch to drive out the top pin on the trigger.
We can now use our 3/32nd inch punch to remove the final pin.
Now we can pull up on the ejector to remove the trigger assembly.
After we've pulled the assembly out, we can then remove the trigger shoe.
It's now time to disassemble the trigger.
Going to grab the housing with one hand and the trigger bar with the other and you're
going to rotate counterclockwise until the cruciform exits the slot.
Then you're going to rotate up.
We're now going to take the trigger bar off the spring.
Spring's going to fight you a little bit, but just keep turning and you'll eventually
get it out of the slot.
Now it's time to remove the spring.
I like to use a 3/32" punch and put it in the spring so that way it helps me rotate
the spring over without creasing it.
Now that the spring is to the rear, we can pull it from the trigger housing.
Now we can remove our disconnector by using our 3/32" punch and pushing it from the opposite
side.
We can now turn our attention to the slide lock.
Now on these older gen 3 frames, we have a tab for a spring.
Using your 1/16 inch punch, compress the spring and then remove the slide lock.
We're now going to use our 1/16 inch punch to pry the spring up from the rear.
Now it's time to work on the mag release.
There's a spring that we'll need to slide over to a notch in the mag release.
your 3/32" punch, move the spring over to the notch and then pry it out.
Now pull your mag release out through the right hand side of the frame.
Using some needle nose pliers, we'll pull the spring straight up and out of the frame.
Just like cleaning the upper, I'm going to put my small parts into a shot glass and everything
else goes directly into the tank. After everything's clean we'll...
After everything's done in the ultrasonic cleaner we'll dry it off.
And I'll use some air to dry off the areas that I just can't reach.
I'll use some Aegis Gun Care Cleaner to make sure there's no residue
leftover from the ultrasonic cleaner.
Then I'll give all my metal parts a good coating of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant.
Now that we got the parts all cleaned and lubed, it's time to get this back
together. Our first step in the reassembly process
is to install the mag release into the frame.
Simply slide the mag release into the frame from the right hand side.
We can now install the spring into the slot just below the mag release.
Using a pair of needle nose pliers, start the install of the spring.
I'll then use the front sight tool to make sure that it's fully seated into that hole and ready for install into the mag release.
Our next step is to move the top of the spring into this groove in the mag release.
I'm now going to use the hook to install the spring into the slot in the mag release.
Now it's time to start the reinstall process of the trigger.
We'll need the trigger mechanism housing, the connector, the trigger spring, and the
trigger bar.
We'll install the leg of the connector into the housing.
pushing to make sure that the connector is fully seated into the housing.
Now we'll need the trigger spring and it will connect into this hole in the back
of the housing.
We'll now connect the hole in the back of our trigger bar to the other side of
the spring.
We'll then rotate everything down into the housing.
We'll then rotate the tab on the other side of the cruciform into the slot in the housing.
We won't fully rotate it into place until after this next step.
We'll then put a drop of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant onto the connector.
Then rotate our trigger bar down onto the connector and then work the lubricant into
place.
Now we're going to install the housing into the frame.
You may have to squeeze the trigger bar and connector to get it to fit into the frame.
For this next step, we're going to need the slide lock spring and the slide lock.
When we install the slide lock, we've got to make sure that the groove faces the rear
of the gun.
We're going to install the spring into this slot, just forward of the trigger.
The tab of the spring will go into the slot in the frame.
Next we'll install the slide lock into the frame.
Just make sure the groove is facing to the rear of the frame.
We'll use our 3/32" punch to compress the spring and then install the slide lock.
We'll install the locking block next.
It'll go into this slot just above the trigger.
slide the locking block until it bottoms out and the two holes in the side should align.
Now we're going to install the slider lock trigger. Now this may seem like an exercise
in futility but eventually you will get it into place. As we're sliding the trigger up
into the frame we need to get the trigger bar to go into the slot in the trigger.
We'll then partially install the trigger pin. We don't want the trigger pin all
the way installed because we still have to install the slide stop. The idea here
is to have it installed just enough that the trigger will rotate on it. We'll now
Now align the hole in the trigger bar to the hole in the trigger and then use a 1/16 inch
punch to hold everything together.
We can now install the pin that holds the trigger onto the trigger bar.
I'll now use the front sight tool to start the install of this pin.
I'll then use the rear of my hex drive extension to finish installing the pin.
We can now install the rear pin into the back of the frame.
This is the only plastic pin in the gun.
The pin is fully installed when it is even to both the left and right hand side of the
grip.
We're now going to install our locking block pin which is the smaller which goes into the
hole above our trigger pin.
Simply push it in until it is even on both the left and the right.
Now we can install our slide stop.
We will install on the left hand side and the end will go into this slot on the left
hand side of the trigger.
Simply slide it into the frame and then align the holes.
Once the holes are aligned, continue pushing the trigger pin all the way through until
it locks into place.
Now we can test the slider lock trigger to make sure it works correctly.
Then place a drop of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant onto each one of the slide rails.
A few triggers in the rear position, pull it forward and then install the slide.
We'll rack the slide a few times to make sure the lubricant is spread out.
With that frame being as dirty as it is, just imagine what the mags look like.
Now on the surface these mags are looking a little rough too, so let's clean them and
make sure they're ready to go.
I used a mag plate removal tool from my Fix-It Sticks tool kit to pull off the base plate.
Now you need to be careful to make sure that the spring inside doesn't shoot out of the
mag.
The mag is more dusty than it is dirty.
We'll pull out the spring and check it and the follower for any damage.
It looks surprisingly good.
But the inside of the mag body definitely needs a wipe down.
So does the floor plate.
And the outside of the mag body could use some attention too.
But hey, there's no rust on the spring and the follower is in great condition.
There's no need to put these into the ultrasonic cleaner, so I'm just going to spray them down
with some Aegis Gun Care Cleaner and wipe them out.
I'll then wipe down my spring and the inside of my mag body with some Aegis lubricant.
Make sure you don't over lubricate.
We just want to make sure that the metal surfaces are preserved and rust free.
Now with everything cleaned up, it's time to put the mag back together.
We'll install the spring follower end first.
We'll then place our magazine insert at the end of the spring with the button end facing
out.
And then install our floor plate onto the magazine.
You'll get the plate on about halfway until you hit the lock and then you'll take a little
bit of extra effort to push it all the way home.
With an empty mag, we're going to put it in the gun and make sure that the slide locks
back.
Now that we've got this frame back together, it's time to take it to the range.
That's how a clean Glock should run.
Smooth, reliable, and ready.
You just watched me take this Glock 29 from carbon cake to carry ready.
Whether it's your EDC or your backcountry backup, maintenance matters.
Because when it's go time, you don't get a second chance to wish you had cleaned it.
Carry it dirty?
You're not just trusting your training, you're trusting your luck.
And that's a bad trade.
If this helped you out, drop a comment down below and let me know what gun you want to
see deep cleaned next.
If I've got it, I'll do it.
And if you've been putting it off, you know better.
If you're watching on YouTube, click that video right there.
That video is about how to deep clean a Glock 43.
For everyone else, there's a link down below.
Train smart, build confidence, and reclaim your capability.
Welcome to the Rogue Nation.